9th - 20th April 2004
A bike ride for the charity: Survival InternationalThursday 8th April 2004
Tonight we meet up at Sennen for the start of the bike ride ...
I'm on the train and can't think of anything I've forgotten to bring. Shall think of something soon no doubt ... a holiday isn't complete without an essential item left behind.
Met up with James in a hostel in Sennen, a mile shy of Land's End, after cycling from Penzance train station. We shared our dorm-room with a Danish father and his sick daughter. The owner was friendly and the place had a good atmosphere. We met a number of interesting people that evening which helped to distract us from the task ahead of us.
Friday - Day One, 73miles Time in saddle: 5.38hours
I got a rude awakening at 4am with cramp, lurched out of bed - probably waking everyone up in the process - and had to pace up and down the corridor like a zombie before it abated.
Wolfed down a huge cooked breakfast before signing the End to End book and taking photos.
We chose the major roads and ate up the early miles. I stopped at a garage for some water, but James didn't see me ... I saw him ride by. I quickly chased after him. However unknown to me, he'd taken a wrong turn. Eventually I guessed what he'd done, so I stopped and waited for him. As he was waiting for me where we split up, we missed each other. Decided James would ring if he was in trouble, so carried on.
I knew James wanted to visit the bicycle museum close to our next B&B, so I went there and found him. He was cross that I didn't go back for him, but we shook and made up.
A fine B&B and excellent evening meal in Camelford, helped end the day on a high and settle any rift.
Saturday - Day Two, 82miles Time in saddle: 6.48hours
Woke up still feeling tired.
On the road we passed old tin mines in various stages of decay wearing green jackets of ivy. Startled rabbits dart for cover as we cycle past. We stop in Okehampton for pasties and tea.
Wellington appeared at 5.30pm after 82 miles on the road. Our first rain chased us into town. We dragged our tired and dirty bodies to the B&B, then freshened up and rested a while before looking for something to eat. Hobson's choice meant dinner in a smokey pub but the food was good. Slept for 10 hours.
Sunday - Day Three, 94miles Time in saddle: 7.18hours
We set a challenging distance today to cover 90 miles! We took the bikes over the Mendips. Started on flatish land, passing a ruin on a small hill called Burrow Mump ... soon Glastonbury Tor loomed ahead and our chakras were energized as we cross the ley lines.
Met up with James' sister Rebecca & husband Phil with whom we had lunch. They said we were very visible on the road with my rear flashing light and James' yellow jacket. Rebecca had supplies to give to James, and she took stuff away that he didn't need.
We arrived in the Brookfield B&B after 6 and had a disappointing meal in the only pub in town.
Example of what we've been eating:
Today I had porridge, full English, toast and tea for breakfast - three cooked meals a day, with pudding in the evening. Also energy bars, fruit, mini easter eggs and isotonic drinks on route. My appetite sometimes seems to be endless, but the desire to eat is a pleasant feeling so I'm not complaining.
Monday - Day Four, 82miles Time in saddle: 6.56hours
Woke up feeling the prickly heat sensation that plastic can give. Rising later I discovered plastic sheeting under the sheets and pillows, yuck!
In Ledbury we met Bill the Bell - towncryer, and watched Morris dancers with black masks.
Sunshine for much of the day discoloured my lilly white skin ... passed through Ludlow and had a break at the appropriately named hamlet of Pedlar's Rest!
We stopped at the first B&B we came across in Shrewsbury after 82 miles and haggled for a fair rate.
Tuesday - Day Five, 94miles Time in saddle: 7.39hours
James had to get his picture taken outside a sponsor's shopfront so we agreed to meet in a village a couple of miles outside Shrewsbury. Pass through a lot of pretty villages on the minor roads through Ellesmere and Chester. Going from one small lane to another is pleasant but progress is slower than when travelling on major routes as the quality of the road surfaces can force on you a gentler pace and the gradients tend to be steeper, with the roads meandering around fields and private property rather than forcing it's way through them as A road do. After Chester a change to a major road with a healthy tail wind allows us to make up time.
Later we are forced onto a busy dual carriageway through Runcorn and Widnes. Big lorrys and other traffic whizz by noisily, whilst we try to pick a route through a gravel and rubbish strewn hard shoulder. It feels a very hostile environment for a bike and I can't believe there isn't a better way through Runcorn. It proves to be the worst road we have to travel on for the entire journey.
At the end of day in the village of Parbold, outside our accomodation, I notice a small tear in my rear tyre brought on by that afternoon's hellish route. We share a hearty but artery clogging supper and I contemplate that our fellow diners may have eaten here a little too often as almost all of them look distinctly lardy.
Wednesday - Day Six, 66miles Time in saddle: 4.43hours
We had an easy day, only doing 65miles and got to Kendal at 3pm. My left knee and back are a bit sore. We have a big climb due tomorrow after leaving town so, after booking into the youth hostal, we discuss which route to take. Over a three course Italian meal we consider whether to go through the middle of the Lake District over Kirkstone Pass as it's the highest mountain pass in England or to go along the A6 on the Eastern side of the lakes over Shap which at 1100ft up is still a considerable challange. We allow ourselves a couple of drinks in the evening as we had a short day and so our bodies won't need as much recovery time.
Thursday - Day Seven, 74miles Time in saddle: 5.41hours
Kendal to Lockerbie - Today's ride began with a long climb up the eastern Lake District to Shap and then Penrith. Met three cyclists doing the Land's End to John O'Groats. They were two women and a younger male youth who had set out two days before us. Over the next thirty miles we kept on passing each other. Bumped into another two cyclists heading to China from Aberdeen. James tried to lift one of their bikes but it was so overloaded with gear that he had to give up. We tried to suggest they lighten their load as we suspected they were carrying unneccessary gear, a gigantic tripod protruding from one of their packs appeared to confirm our suspicions.
A strong south-westerly helped us to Carlisle, although the rain that came with it was less welcome, Over lunch we decided on a different route to that suggested in our guide book by using a B-road that criss-crossed the M74 all the way to Glasgow.
Entered Scotland at Gretna Green and booked into a nice B&B in Lockerbie.
Friday - Day Eight, 78miles Time in saddle: 6.12hours
After an excellent breakfast at the best B&B so far, we went to see the Lockerbie Memorial Gardens. It was tastefully designed and well kept.
After 25 northerly miles the temperature dropped as the Tweedsmuir Hills rose on either side, and hail stones lay thickly on the verge and whitened the slopes.
I stopped to put on extra layers and waterproofs as the rain started. We had the luxury of a cycle lane for the majority of the day. Visited the branch of James' sponsors in the centre of town and were given yet more easter eggs. After a 45 minute search, we got a room in Sauchihall Street, close to the centre of the city. For the First and last time we had to leave our bikes attached to railings.
Went to a smokey comedy club after some fine Indian cuisine but kept quiet when asked if there were any Englishmen in the audience. Had a few pints and really enjoyed the evening's entertainment.
Saturday - Day Nine, 19miles Time in saddle: 1.33hours Rest day
Looked out of our window nervously and sighed with relief that the bikes were still where we had left them. Leaving them in a Glasgow street overnight made us both anxious but we had no alternative.
Arrived at the Glasgow School of Art just in time to join a guided tour of the fascinating building designed by Mackintosh. The upper floors afforded great views of the city below. Visited an art gallery but with the weather deteriating we packed our stuff and rode 20miles to the splendid looking Loch Lomond Youth hostel. We chat to four women (three Australian and a Taiwanese) over supper. The Aussies live in an area where water is a scarce resource so they have two water sources, one for drinking and a saline one for everything else. We contrast that with where we are staying, water is everywhere and taken for granted.
Sunday - Day Ten, 83miles Time in saddle: 6.30hours
The hostel didn't offer breakfast until 8am so we got straight on the bikes and headed off into the rain, stopping at a cafe for a cooked breakfast. The rest day must of helped me as I feel much stronger today.
The scenery changes dramatically with snow-capped mountains peering down at us from the clouds. From before Crianlarich to just short of Glencoe we remain at high altitude for 40miles and there are hardly any houses. We had reached the Scottish wilderness and I found it breathtakingly beautiful.
We stopped for lunch at the Bridge of Orchy but James felt restless and so arranged to meet me at Glencoe whilst I ordered pudding. This was a regular cause of friction between us; James preferred to grab some food with only a brief stop, I liked to stop for an hour with a cooked lunch and unwind.
There was still plenty of uphill work to tackle but it didn't create any great problems, I felt refreshed from the break so the miles passed quickly until I found James waiting for me just before Glencoe. We swept down the mountain slopes, travelling as fast as our bikes would allow by pushing our arms forward and tucking our bodies into slipstreamed shapes.
We had a huge choice of b&b's to choose when we got to Fort William and the eatery, above a pub, recommended by our host afforded fabulous views over the peaty waters of Loch Linnhe. We greedily devoured three courses before calling it a night.
Monday - Day Eleven, 100miles Time in saddle: 7.16hours
Wake still feeling tired and rain seems to sap our spirits. We cycle along Loch Locky and then Loch Ness - dramatic scenery surrounds us. I feel cold despite being all wrapped up. The rain has saturated my gloves and moisture builds up under the waterproofs to give a prickily sensation against the skin. I'm glad when we stop to eat as it gives me a chance to thaw out.
After lunch the rain stops and a tail wind helps us along. I warm up and begin to enjoy the day. We eventually get to Tain and my mileometer says 99 miles so I ride around town until it reads 100 miles. We eat a great supper at the Royal Hotel and stay in a first class B&B.
Throughout the journey neither of us suffered much from saddle sores. The training helped toughen the nether regions and a good saddle helps. I had a Men's Terry Liberator and I'd recommend it for long rides. I'd feel a bit bruised after 50 miles but the skin never suffered from chafing or blisters.
Tuesday - Day Twelve, 88miles Time in saddle: 7.01hours
We're 80-90 miles from John O'Groats and hope to finish today - one day early!
It's blue skies outside after several days of rain. I'm feeling a palpable sense of anticipation. Instead of the usual tail wind we face easterlies coming at us from the sea.
Have difficulty finding anywhere to eat ... James goes ahead to Wick and books two bike places on Wednesday's train, as they only have room for two and we need them both! I stay and have a light lunch. I need more than biscuits and bananas for lunch.
Both in a huff with each other, so didn't speak to each other for 15 of the 17 miles to John O'Groats! We made up and crossed the JOG sign together, arms raised with passing cars beeping and waving in recognition of our achievement. We accepted the adulation with broad grins and had a dram of whiskey to celebrate.
Total: 937 miles over 12 days
Neither of us had any punctures or serious mechanical problems. When my bike was blown over during a break a bit of the brake lever broke off. A tear appeared in the rear tyre that I'd check regularly but didn't replace. One day I had to tighten my saddle. My pump stopped working but we passed many bike shops so I was able to buy a new one.
I noticed the difference in lowered rolling resistance if I kept the tyres ( 26x1.3) well pumped up. We'd lube our chains most days, especially after rain. I fitted end-bars just medial to the brake levers to give an alternative position on the bike that helped reduce wind resistance. They worked like mini aero bars but took up less room. A combination of travelling on minor and major roads suited us. The minor ones were pleasant, interesting but slow, whilst the major roads allowed us to make more rapid progress.
I had a number of repairs done before the trip including a new bottom bracket, new rear wheel bearings and new chain and road orientated rear cassette. I replaced the grip-shifters for rapidfire-shifters and renewed the brake cables and brake pads. Most importantly I made sure the gears and brakes worked crisply and precisely, you don't want to waste time with adjustments or repairs whilst on the trip.
